A history of British-Indian desi pubs and which ones to visit
What makes a desi pub so special? Mallika Basu explains all – plus shares the best ones across the UK worth visiting
The vibrant tandoori grill platters arrive with a dramatic hiss, sending a whisper of smoky spice trailing through the air. Pint glasses clink, laughter ripples from the familiar at the bar. If you’re new, chances are someone’s already pulled you into the banter. This is no ordinary British boozer, this is a Desi pub: where the warmth of South Asian hospitality meets the heart of British pub culture.
The history of Desi pubs dates to the post-war migration of South Asian communities to industrial towns in Britain. In the 1950s and 60s, men arriving from India, Pakistan and Gujarat via East Africa found that the local pubs that acted as the social glue of British life were closed off to them. Smethwick, a town in the West Midlands, was among the most racially segregated areas in the country. Even after the legal end of the colour bar in 1965, many pubs enforced it in practice with separate entrances, different rooms or no service at all for people of colour.
In response, Punjabi and Gujarati migrants did something quietly radical. They became landlords themselves. Over time, they took over failing traditional pubs, carving out spaces where their communities could gather, drink and eat in comfort. Bhangra pulsed from the jukebox, pints were poured with pride and kebabs came in generous quantities to accompany them. These were, as writer David Jesudason calls them, “British boozers with brown landlords”.
What began as a response to exclusion slowly evolved into a cultural phenomenon, mixing pub traditions with South Asian flavours, people and entrepreneurial zeal. Once synonymous with sticky floors and swaggering machismo, many Desi pubs have modernised offering family-friendly spaces, fast-paced service and food menus that lure diners back again and again, far beyond the South Asian diaspora.
Expect live sports on big screens, cosy corners and large communal spaces, and menus that celebrate spice and smoke. Tandoori sizzlers meet curry house favourites. Chilli chips, tossed in spice rubs or slathered in punchy sauces, are a must-order. In Gujarati pubs with East African roots, you’ll find seasoned and sauced mogo chips (fried cassava). Many of these pubs have Nepalese chefs who bring their own signature touches, featuring dishes like Himalayan goat curry and Everest chicken curry.
While these venues have long been cherished locally, a new wave of recognition is lifting them onto a bigger stage. In 2016, Parminder Dosanjh of Creative Black Country created a commemorative book about seven pioneering Desi pubs in Smethwick. The project sparked national and international interest and caught the attention of Alex Metcalfe at CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale), which was looking to modernise its image and reflect Britain’s changing pub landscape. CAMRA commissioned David Jesudason to write Desi Pubs: A guide to British-Indian Pubs, Food and Culture. Soon after, filmmaker Zaki Solosho was brought on to document their story on screen.
A London Southall local and food lover, Solosho recalls his first visit to The Scotsman pub at age 15. His film Desi: A Pub Story blends archival footage with present-day scenes, tracing the role these pubs played in resisting racism and far-right violence in 1970s and 80s Britain.
The documentary is on the film festival circuit now, adding to the growing appetite for Desi pubs. “A lot of people are talking about trendy spots like The Tamil Prince and Tamil Crown,” says Solosho. “The CAMRA book and the film have really helped with visibility. And while traditional pubs have closed because they can’t afford their bills, Desi landlords are opening and diversifying their income.”
Many have smartly adapted to tough times. Family-friendly areas, takeaway and delivery services, and crowd-pleasing menus have helped them weather economic pressures. In 2024 alone, six pubs were closing every week in the UK, according to the British Beer and Pub Association. But Desi pubs are holding strong and, in some cases, expanding.
Rahul Sharma of The Regency Club in north west London has built on his father's legacy at this Indian bar and grill with Kenyan roots. With 15 chefs in an open kitchen and a strong delivery operation, they’ve seen 15 per cent growth this year alone. “We’ve also started delivering marinated meats via DPD across England, Wales and Scotland which has been a big hit. Our guests can do a home barbecue… Regency style!” says Sharma.
In the Midlands, Mikey Singh has transformed his father's Soho Tavern into a springboard for national growth, now operating six branches. Metcalfe believes more pubs will follow with this critical lifeline: “I hope we’ll see Desi pubs expanding beyond their traditional strongholds. They could be key to keeping more pubs alive.”
Newcomers like Megha and Gaurav Khanna at The Gladstone in London are also reimagining what a Desi pub can be. Punjabi via Zambia, Megha left her job in tech to support her brother’s dream of becoming a landlord and is one of only two known female landlords of a Desi pub. "Our older customers treat it as an extension of their living rooms," she says.
What to order when you’re in a Desi pub is up to you and the house specialities, but chips, kebabs and grills are generally a must-try. If you’re not a fan of the full mixed grill, Sarvjit Sra, who helped document Smethwick’s Desi pubs, recommends asking for individual items on the sizzler. “That way you get exactly what you want,” she says, in eateries only too keen to please their punters.
In fact, making their guests feel welcome and special is what they excel at. From resistance to renaissance, Desi pubs are bright, sizzling proof of how enterprise, resilience and community can transform tradition and stir something new into the British food and drink saucepot. As Metcalfe puts it, Desi pubs are “a symbol of hope and positivity in an increasingly polarised world” places where community is built without hatred, but around a shared table and a mixed grill. “It’s novel and familiar,” he says, “And the food? Incredible. It’s as much a part of British culinary history as Lea & Perrins or the Sunday roast.”
9 Desi pubs to put on your itinerary
Desi Yew Tree, Wolverhampton
A true Midlands institution credited with reviving Black Country pub culture. Restaurant critic and food writer Jay Rayner and locals praise its sizzling platters and atmosphere. Elsewhere in Wolverhampton, The Builders Arms also comes recommended with special mentions of its tandoori fish.
The Gurkha Curry, Leicester
A suburban, beautifully restored pub run by Nepalese landlords. Expect momo plates and “Gurkhali” curries inspired by the traditions of the renowned Gurkha soldiers of Nepalese heritage in an intimate dining area.
Covered Wagon, Moseley (Birmingham)
A buzzing, contemporary take on Punjabi pub food with tandoori sizzlers, butter chicken, chilli naan and veggie dishes, served with Brum charm. This is loved by local food journalists and influencers.
Red Cow Pub & Grill, Smethwick
A landmark since 1930, family-run and nationally recognised. Mixed grills and Punjabi-style curries are cooked on a clay tandoor, in a thriving sports bar with community event space. Down the road, the refurbished Ivy Bush Bar & Grill mixes live sports with a Nepalese kitchen.
Soho Tavern, West Bromwich
Hearty mixed grills, chilli chips and chaat, and street food platters doused in explosive chutneys are on the menu. The vegan options are famous among those who forgo meat.
The Gladstone Arms, London
This Southwark gem serves live music alongside Anglo-Indian comfort food like chicken tikka masala with a choice of rice, chips or a bit of both, goat keema pies and masala Sunday roasts.
The Tamil Crown, London
Modern, buzzy and stylish. Expect South Indian specials like savoury pancake uttapam and Chettinad curry, okra fries and roast-only Sundays, served with generous quantities of spiced vegetables, potatoes and roti.
The Prince of Wales, Southall
A Southall family-owned establishment that hosts cultural events and sports lovers alike, this was named a top cheap eat by restaurant critic Tom Parker Bowles. Their sizzling grills, Punjabi-inspired curries and a vast selection of beer snacks and starters have garnered many fans over the last two decades.
The Regency Club, London
An extensive menu of kebabs, curries and more in a warm wooded interior with a separate dining room. The leg of lamb is a star attraction along with their chicken wings and garlic mogo. Owner Rahul went vegan for three months to devise the vegan dishes.
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